December is here and with it comes shorter days and cooler weather; maybe even some snow. I know itís not good to talk about it to some folks but it is what it is if you live in our neck of the woods so letís enjoy it as attitude makes the difference between having a great day and feeling a victim of whatever comes our way. Isnít it great that you get to choose how life affects you?

Anyway, the last couple lessons were on gaining control of the hips with the reins. Right rein moves right hip to the left and left rein moves left hip to the right. As you repeat the request from each side, you should notice your horse getting lighter and softer as he responds, finishing each move by giving to the bit. You are feeling for a lack of pull on the rein when you take the slack out and ask the hip to step over. If your horse is moving his hip okay but still feels very heavy on the bit, you will need to give him a ìmini-releaseî which tells him he is doing the right thing but then immediately ask again and again until you feel his jawbone soften into the request as he steps his hip over. Conditioning the horse to give to the bit instead of bracing against it is the only way to ensure control when you need it the most. So, always be looking to improve the softness as you continue to do the exercise.

If you feel your horse is ready, letís move on to the next step. As you give the horse the go-forward cue and walk with him a few steps before asking the hip to step over, it will become increasing difficult to keep him going in a straight line. As the horse becomes familiar with the exercise, he will begin to carry his head to the inside in anticipation of the request. This is a good thing! We will now build on this softness by encouraging the horse to walk around us as he stays soft on the bit.

Shorten your hold on the rein and ask the horse to go forward. Keep your feet in one spot and rotate enough to stay facing his shoulder. Donít lead him with your arm out to your side because this will pull the horse into you. Keep your arm in front of you, no wider than 45 degrees and drive him from behind. The stiffer the horseís neck, the closer he will walk to you to stay soft on the bit. Our goal is to have the horse walking around us with a nice arch in his body and the neck relaxed and curved. If the horse crowds with his shoulder, step towards his hindquarters while using the rein to disengage the hip. He may only take 2-3 forward steps before you stop and switch sides. Continue until he is walking a full circle without stepping into you and starting to carry his head to the inside on a loose rein. Remember to stay in one spot and rotate.

Next, have your horse walk forward on the circle. Bring your hand with the rein directly in front of you, no wider than your shoulder, while continuing to ask for the walk. Donít bring the horseís head any farther than 45 degrees. Set your arm and just wait. The horse will most likely try to stop but gently ask it to keep going. Do not release with the rein hand. The goal here is to have the horse release the pressure on the bit by ìgivingî by moving its head in the direction of the pull while continuing to walk on the circle. The moment he gives, release the rein by moving it towards the nose. Keep him walking on the circle and then disengage the hip to stop. Switch sides and follow the same sequence.

I repeat, do not bring the head past a 45 degree angle unless you are disengaging the hip! If you hold the head too far around, the give will eventually disconnect the steering, whereas, the finished product should find the head 6-8 inches to the side and then tucked towards the point of the shoulder. If you bring the nose too far, it is harder for the horse to learn the give and also teaches them to be rubber-necked. If your horse walks fast on the circle, you have to rotate faster in the middle to keep from over flexing.

Once the horse begins to understand to give with his jaw while he is walking, I will ask for about 3 gives with a mini-release between each one before disengaging the hip and switching sides. I will continue to advance to having the horse walk the full circle with slack in the rein. Then I might wait for the nose to drop to a certain spot as I work towards a specific collected position before I release. Repetition without change can produce aggravation so always be looking for improvements to keep you and your horse interested.

Some horses will be soft in the face but stiff in the neck so they will begin by walking with their tail on a bigger circle then their fronts. Donít worry about this. As their necks soften, their bodies will relax and come onto the circle. Other horses will crowd you with their shoulders for the same reason, a stiff neck. This too is resolved as they learn to soften their necks towards you and relax. If you get stuck on any piece, just back up to the step that you could get the horse to do consistently and build from there. One step sets up the next and a struggle can be eliminated by just backing up and getting the previous step better. Whenever you advance a step, it is a test to see how well your horse has learned the step before.

Next month, we will add shoulder control. It is important to get a good soft curve on the circle before adding shoulder control so keep working this month and you will be ready for the next lesson without struggle. If there is anyone out there who is following these articles who would like to share with me how they are helping you or if you have any questions, please feel welcome to write me an e-mail at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it I would love to hear from you and maybe answer questions you may have. Until next month....God Bless you and keep you safe.....Ann